Tales and Songs from Weddings and Funerals

I was in Cuba....

From music drifting out of houses and children playing in the street, to billboards of American President George Bush with fangs, Cuba represents a unique situation. Sitting in the Caribbean, the country is only 150 kilometers south of the Florida Keys, but that’s as close as they get.

The US embargo has had lasting and negative impacts on the Cuban people; clothing is expensive and often basic necessities like toilet paper and toothpaste are not available. Aware travelers often bring everything from soap to school supplies with them to leave behind. It is rewarding giving medical supplies to local Red Cross or crayons to the toddler living down the street from the house where you are staying.

Despite the consumer restrictions Cuban people are full of life, they love music, talking with their neighbors, and nearly every guy you meet, from the taxi driver to the security guard, is ready and willing to teach you salsa.

Traveling alone was not a problem, even with catcalls and offers to be my “Cuban boyfriend” I always felt safe.

At first the constant, “Hey linda” (Spanish for beautiful) was flattering, but on days when I was struggling up a hill with my backpack in the 32º, humid heat, sweaty and smelly I knew they were full of it.

In Cuba there are two currencies, which is confusing for the unsuspecting traveler and everyone is willing to lend you a hand, for a couple of the tourist dollars. The preferred cash is the Cuban convertible peso (CUC), but many Cubans will never obtain these because most jobs are paid in the national currency the peso Cubano. However, to buy a shampoo, socks and clothing, outside of the government’s tight rations, a Cuban requires the CUC.

Everything in Cuba is a balance or contradiction; they have some of the best health care in the world, but with a dictator, movements and free speech are restricted. Everyone has food and some form of housing, but many people live in poverty. All education is free so everyone has the opportunity to become a doctor, lawyer or simply to learn English.

So much of Cuban history is present in everyday life: their president led the revolution; the city streets are named after Cuban heroes; soccer fields are built in and around monuments; and the national newspaper is called the Granma, after the boat Ernesto ‘Ché’ Guevara and Castro used to get to Cuba.

Cubans love Ché and after visiting the museum in his honour and memorial it is easy to see why. He is what the left stands for – equality and dignity for everyone and he never compromised it.

After Ché, Cubans have a love of good rum and quality cigars. In fact, some stores sell Havana Club rum for the same price as bottled water.

From street corners to bars, in cities from Havana all the way down to Santiago de Cuba there is music. The soulful sounds of tova (the ballad), the upbeat rhythms of salsa, or pop songs from the ‘90s can be heard from morning to night. A shower with a window open is often accompanied by Céline Dion or Shania Twain pumped out from a vehicle across the street. And sometimes it seems that nearly every Cuban is musical as most can sing, dance or play a musical instrument.

There is one important thing to note. The real Cuba cannot be found in an all inclusive resort in Varadero or Cayo Coco. Not to mention there are areas in these cities which will not allow Cubans on the beaches, as they are reserved for tourists.

If you want to find a family to stay with, someone who will dance salsa, beautiful scenery, music and new experiences, they’re in the backstreets of Havana, and the cities of Santiago de Cuba, Santa Clara and Trinidad.

Labels: Cuba, music, travel

posted by Angela @ 10:21 a.m.